Gladiolus Care

gladiolus care Blog

What kind of gladiolus to choose

I want to share my experience of caring for gladioli, which I have been doing for more than 15 years.

During this period, she grew, propagated and collected collections of gladioli from 150 specimens of domestic and foreign varieties, including corrugated, early spring, and others of different colors from snow-white, green, yellow, orange, lilac, blue, purple to dark brown and smoky. I prefer varieties:

  • from whites – Sil-ver-Bedding, Polar bear;
  • from orange – Donna Maria, I love you;
  • from red – Red Moscow, May Day, Oscar, Garnet bracelet;
  • from crimson – Agripina – daughter of Nastasya;
  • from lilac -Patria, Gladiolus Ulanova;
  • from blue – Modru programs; from brown – Chocolate and many others. others

Gladiolus reproduces by corms and children. Corms die off every year, and new ones grow in their place with children.

Preparing a place to land

I have been preparing the soil for placing gladioli since autumn. It is recommended to plant flowers in the soil where gladioli did not grow before, since pathogenic microbes and fungi remain in this soil for a long time (more than 5 years). But, unfortunately, I don’t have such an opportunity, so every autumn I shoot 1520 cmearth, and in its place I bring in humus, loosening it with a rake, put furnace ash, a mixture of mineral fertilizers (20-30 gper 1 sq.m), again I loosen with a rake. You can make fresh manure (horse). The earth should be slightly acidic, soft, well lit.

Good planting material is the key to success

To grow gladioli, you need to have good planting material. It is advisable to take corm and baby from those varieties that have adapted well to local climatic conditions. Southern specimens often get sick, sometimes they do not bloom at all. It is necessary to take into account the timing of flowering. It is much more convenient to grow varieties of early and medium flowering periods. A month before planting, I bring the planting material into heat, the temperature is 25-30 degrees, I clean them from dry scales. I remove diseased and damaged corms.

For planting, I select only healthy, mature corms, lay them out in boxes in one or two layers and keep them in a bright, sunny place. Under such conditions, the apical buds develop rapidly, while the roots retard their growth.

We plant bulbs

It is better to plant the bulbs as early as possible, then the plants grow strong, bloom early and have larger flowers. I start landing at the end of March.

Before planting the corms and children, I stand for 1 hour in a half-percentage solution of potassium permanganate.

To get early flowers, I use film shelters. The bed where the gladioli will be planted is cleared of snow in the first decade of February and covered with two layers of plastic wrap. Under the sunbeams of February-March, the earth thaws and warms up. In order for the earth in the garden to warm up better on sunny days, I open one film. Moreover, in the second half of March, on good days, the temperature under the film rises to + 40 degrees.

In addition, before planting and after planting, I water the soil with hot water. I start planting when the temperature of the soil at a depth10 cmwill be 0 +1 degrees. This temperature does not adversely affect root development.

When the land is prepared in this way and the corms have sprouted, I plant first of all large specimens of early varieties. They will bloom earlier than others by one to two weeks. I plant adult corms in a ridge through15 cm, and in the aisles – 20 cm, planting depth – three bulb diameters. On clay soils, planting depth is less.

To keep warm at night, I additionally close the bed with mats. This does not allow the ascended gladioli to freeze slightly.

Throughout the growing season, plants require periodic top dressing, watering, weeding. The better you take care of the plants, the more elegant the flowers will be, the larger the bulbs and the babies.

Caring for plants the right way

Caring for gladiolus is not too complicated. Watering – plentiful, in good weather once every ten days. I feed three times a season. In the first half of growth, I avoid nitrogen fertilizers, using mixed top dressings containing phosphorus, potassium. I carry out top dressing until the beginning of September. Before each top dressing, I water the plants well, and after top dressing, I loosen them.

It is good to feed flowers with organic fertilizers: horse manure, bird droppings (on100 lI take water 8-9 ldiluted litter, which I prepare at the rate of one part of the litter to ten parts of water).

In the second half of June, gladioli bloom. According to the timing of flowering, the plants are different: – very early bloom in 65-70 days, early – in 70 days, medium-early – in 75-80 days and late – in 85-90 days.

In order for the garden to always be with flowers, corms should not be planted all at the same time, but at intervals of about 10-15 days. Only then do some flowers fade, and the next ones bloom. The garden is always pretty.

To obtain a full-fledged corm and baby, when cutting flowers on the stem, you need to save as many leaves as possible, at least 4.

I have been harvesting corms since the end of September. First, I remove the large bulbs that bloomed about 40 days ago, then the short ones, and lastly the babies.

I cut the stem, leaving stumps in 1-2 cm. I clean the plants with secateurs from the roots, it is advisable to immediately remove the old corm. I wash the collected corms with water and dry thoroughly. The better dried corms, the better they are stored.

Dealing with Gladiolus Diseases

Growing gladioli is rarely free from diseases and pests. Treatment against fungal and bacterial diseases is carried out in the fall. On a bucket of water10 l) I take60 gfundozol and50 gkarbofos, mix everything well and keep adult corms in this suspension for 1 hour, children for 30 minutes. I dry everything well for 20-30 days at a temperature of 20-25 degrees, after which I put it away for storage. I store in the summer kitchen, maintaining a temperature of + 5-7 ° C. I place the bulbs in boxes in one or two layers, and I put the boxes one on top of the other in a column. During the winter, I inspect the bulbs several times.

The correct storage conditions and appropriate processing of the material in the fall make it possible to avoid diseases and have a full-fledged planting material.

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