Growing onions from seeds

growing onions from seeds Blog

Onion seedlings from seeds

Gardeners are inquisitive people, they are constantly looking for something new, rare. For these, I want to tell you about growing onions from seeds, and from seedlings a good turnip in one summer. First you need to buy onion seeds of varieties that ripen well in one summer. Varieties of Chalcedony, Odintsovets, Penguin are suitable for growing onions from seeds, from foreign ones – Schuttgarter – Riesen, Oporto, Duetto, Bulkato, Stirling, Carmen and others. Seedlings should be 45-55 days old. Before planting seeds, we prepare boxes of any size, and a depth of 10-12 cm. This is a prerequisite.

I prepare the soil for sowing from humus and sod land 1: 1, add two handfuls of ash. I steam the soil in the same way as for tomatoes. Seeds before planting pre-fill with hot (90 °) water and leave them until the water cools. Then I drain the water and soak for 30 minutes in pink potassium permanganate. Then I drain the water, wash the seeds, put them in rags, in a film and under the battery for germination. As soon as 2-3 seedlings appear, I remove the film, because the high humidity at this moment is harmful, I sow in rows, cover them with a layer of earth in0.5 cm and put the box on a bright window.

In order for the seedlings to be strong, healthy, and not stretched out, I open the window at night to lower the temperature to 10-12 ° on the windowsill behind the curtain and ventilate the room. As soon as the opportunity arises, I transfer the seedlings to the balcony for hardening, and on the 20th of April (sometimes earlier), I take them to the garden. During the day I keep seedlings in the air, and at night I put them in a greenhouse or cover them with a film. When the air temperature rises to 10-12 °, I plant it in the ground, deepening it by 1-2 cm.

The bed is best prepared in the fall. The soil for onions should be neutral, loose and fertile – otherwise onions do not work well. Before planting seedlings, I water the soil abundantly the day before and on the day of planting so that the soil in the box turns into liquid porridge – it is convenient to choose plants from such soil without damaging the roots. If the root is very long, I cut it, leaving 5-6 cmlong, 1/3 cut the leaves. Seedlings are considered good if the plants have a thickness of 2-4 mmand 5-7 green feather leaves. If she2 mm and 3-4 sheets, then I do not cut the sheet.

Start landing

Now about landing. I pull the twine along the ridge5 cm from the wall of the box and roll over it to a depth of 7-8 cmgroove. One wall of the groove (which is from the box) should be completely perpendicular to the surface of the ridge, I apply the plant to it, straighten the roots, then water it and cover each plant with earth. After planting, I water well again. Landing is carried out according to the scheme: row by row-25 cm, between plants in a row – 6-8 cm. Can be planted in 34 cm, but by the middle of summer thin out through one plant – this onion will go for food. It is undesirable to tear green onions on a feather, because. the size of the bulb depends on the number of feathers and their quality, and a carelessly torn feather is a wound where an infection can get, water that, stagnant in a feather, like in a vase, can become a source of decay and infection.

Care and harvest

Now you know how to plant onions, let’s deal with care. At first, I just water the planted seedlings. A week later I give the first top dressing: 6-8 ghumate and 1 teaspoon of boric acid in a bucket of water. A week later I feed chicken manure. After 10-12 days, depending on the condition of the pen, phosphorus-potassium top dressing, or complete mineral fertilizer (60 gon a bucket of water, trace elements). Before each top dressing, I water and loosen the ridge.

If you notice yellowing and drying of the feather on at least 2-3 plants, do not wait for trouble to strike. This is an onion fly. Urgently pour salt solution 300-500 g on the 10 lwater. Pour directly into the center of the nest, under each bulb. The next day, be sure to feed the onions with complete mineral fertilizer plus trace elements or bird droppings. Today – salt treatment, tomorrow – top dressing.

From mid-July, I stop feeding and watering. At the end of July, I rake the bulbs and bring down the feather. If the onion has acquired a color corresponding to the variety, it barely stays in the ground and the pipe begins to dry – everything is in order. If the pen is powerful, and the pipe is thick and does not dry, then I do a weekly steam room: I put arcs over the bow and cover it with a film. Even if it’s hot, don’t be afraid: the steam room will not only help the onion prepare for harvesting, but also save it from powdery mildew, neck and bottom rot, and onion flies.

After a week, I check: if the onion sits weakly, almost does not hold on to the roots, it’s time to clean it up. If it sits firmly, leave the steam room for another day or two.

Pulling out the onion, I dry it for 2-3 days right in the garden, if the weather permits. In wet weather, I dry land under a canopy, clamping the feathers with two slats, knocked down at one end and free at the other. The neck should not be clamped with rails. I hang one bulb with the head in one direction, the other – on the other side, clamping, and put the slats on any supports. After drying, I clean the onions from the remnants of the earth and cracked husks, tie them into braids or put them in cardboard boxes for storage.

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